Sewisolation Project #2
The next project on my sewisolation list was Deer and Doe’s Réglisse Dress.
This is the loveliest of summer dresses, featuring either an elasticated or shirred waistband, bias cut bodice, cap sleeves, shoulder yokes, a pussy bow neck tie or button front and a beautifully full-flared skirt.
The pattern envelope contains a full-size pattern and a detailed instruction booklet (fitting sizes 34-46).
The recommended fabrics include medium weight fabrics such as cotton poplin, chambray, or lightweight linen. I opted for a cotton poplin to make my first mock up of the dress – given that réglisse translates into English as liquorice, I went for a black star poplin print (from The Fabric Guys) but I have a gorgeous lilac Swiss dot on the way from Minerva Crafts to make a more summery looking version of the dress.
The neck bow feature appealed to me so I decided to make Version A.
The most laborious part of the process was cutting the pieces – when I make it again, I’ll make sure to get a 60″ fabric as it will make it just a little less bothersome.
Once the pieces are ready, the pattern comes together so well – any adventurous beginner with a few projects could take this on. It was a dream to sew up (I did it over a couple of days) and it came together perfectly – I even took on bias binding for the first time on the collar and the hem and I can see the appeal (nobody really wants to stand at the ironing board on a beautiful spring afternoon).
I also found that it saves time to serge all the edges before sewing the pieces together. I also deviated from the Version A when it came to the waistband – shirring just wasn’t working for me so I cut a couple more waistband pieces and opted for the elastic instead. Note to self: master shirring. The waistband was so easy to join.
On the fitting: Deer and Doe patterns are drawn to fit a C-cup so my dress is tighter on the bust than I would like. It looks fine but it might be more comfortable next time to make an adjustment just to make it a bit roomier for a sunnier day! Other than this, the fit is good and the length is perfect for me (at 5ft2in).
Réglisse is a dream to wear – light and floaty, it’s perfect for a sunny day. It is so effortlessly chic, as is the French way. That’s not to say I won’t wear it on a cold and rainy day – after all, my black Lupin jacket compliments it perfectly. Here’s hoping the national effort will kick Covid-19 in the ass and we’ll all be out in our handmade outfits sooner rather than later!
Definitely a pattern to come back to.
P. S. I will take a picture of the dress on over the next couple of days, when I can borrow Simon from D.I.Y. duty.