June 2022 Sew Diary

My sew jo still isn’t what it was but it is no bad thing – sometimes rest is more rewarding!

Roseclair dress

Cashmerette’s Roseclair is a beautiful pattern and one I will undoubtedly make again. It is such a confidence booster to find a wrap dress that does not require an FBA (and all the other little issues that can arise as a result of performing the FBA) and does not gape – what’s more, it holds in place all day long.

The wrap over also feels really secure; as a true wrap dress, it is secured by ties on both sides which protects you from any flashing moments! This is helped by the fact there is a deep wrap on the underneath panel which, I have noticed, also protects you from showing too much leg when you sit down (unless the occasion should call for it, of course).

This dress is exactly what I had hoped it would be – a dress suitable for pretty much any occasion, carefully balancing modern and vintage styles.

Adrienne Blouse (Dress Hack)

The Friday Pattern Adrienne blouse is an utterly delightful pattern; in total, you can make this pattern up in around an hour – making it a perfect palette cleanser. The Adrienne blouse is an easy wardrobe staple – although, separates are not what I gravitate to and, after making a couple of Adrienne blouses and never reaching for them, I decided to do the most basic hack of all time and add a skirt, making them something I reach for over and over again.

The instructions are so easy to follow – there are minimal steps. All you need to remember is to use the right needle for sewing with jersey (90/14 ballpoint is perfect) and the right stitch – most machines now come with a stretch stitch but a zig zag stitch works perfectly. I actually used a basic straight stitch for this project because I was sewing with the latest wonder from Gutermann – Maraflex thread. Sewing with a straight stitch makes the sewing process much faster; zig zag stitches and lightning stitches really do slow you down a good bit.

I think in this gorgeous sweater knit, from Minerva, it looks a bit witchy. Even though I have used a sweater knit – I usually use drapier knits like viscose for this kind of pattern – I do not think it has compromised the flow of the dress and the arms maintain their billowy-ness!

Kinfolk Dress

Another tester call I couldn’t refuse was Jennifer Lauren’s Kinfolk dress.

The Kinfolk Dress is bohemian 40s inspired; it is part kaftan, part wrap-style dress, which you can slip over your head (no fastenings required); it is fitted by way of the front waist ties which tie at the back, allowing you to cinch in your silhouette as tightly as you please. It features a gentle rounded neckline and in-seam pockets. The skirt is a gentle A-line that falls just below the knee. There is plenty of ease at the waist and hips, with an optional step at the end to add elastic into the back waist seam, to help keep gathers even underneath the ties during wear.

This is an easy pattern to fit; it features princess seams from the shoulder down over the bust (which, personally, I think are easier to fit than bodices with darts) and fitting is aided by the design of a panelled bodice and six gored skirt which makes it easier to build in ease or take out excess ease. I always find princess seams kinder when it comes to the process of carrying out bust adjustments.

Construction is further made easy with the design feature of grown on sleeves; as someone with larger arms, this saves me from carrying out a full bicep adjustment.

I’ve made this dress in a cotton lawn bought from Amothreads last summer.

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